WEEKEND COLUMNISTS
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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -
King of the squashes
Any recipe for pumpkin – soups, gnocchi, risotto, pies and all – will probably be enhanced by the concentrated flavour of ’potimarron’, says Rowley Leigh
Make sure your wines are a winning pair
There are quite a few rules when it comes to planning a wine dinner. But Rowley Leigh says that in the end, one has to forget them and actually taste the pairing
Fun and game
Wild ducks are tricky birds to cook and Rowley Leigh says it’s best to stick to Eliza Acton’s sage advice in the 1845 book ‘Modern Cookery’
Children’s favourite, tastily dressed for the grownups
For those much too sophisticated to want to eat a corn on a cob, sweetcorn can be used in other guises, writes Rowley Leigh
Don’t get the risotto blues
Italian chefs are very protective of the heritage of this dish, but different varieties of rice and new cooking methods are blurring traditional boundaries, says Rowley Leigh
A far cry from hairy and salty
Instead of a trip to Collioure, epicentre of the French anchovy trade, Rowley Leigh settles for a walk to Borough Market to sample exquisite imported fish from Spain
The magic of mushrooms
Britons ought to get to know their mushrooms better – especially the wild types, which have a rich and earthy flavour, writes Rowley Leigh
The best game of all
Rowley Leigh says nothing has tasted better and he has no intention of changing his formula for enjoying grouse, any more than Proust would ask for jam with his madeleines
Less choice, more flavour
Given Umbria’s few restaurants and food shops, Rowley Leigh finds that the rich, sweet flavour of the greengrocer’s offerings is about as much choice as one needs
Aubergine genie
Caponata and ratatouille are quite different. Ratatouille should be cooked quickly, with precision in the cooking times; caponata is best slow-cooked and reduced to a piquant condiment, writes Rowley Leigh
